

Springs · Kawartha Lakes
Extension Spring Replacement
The door climbs with the left corner ahead of the right, then twists as it turns into the ceiling track.
In plain words
What you have afterwards is a door that behaves like a much lighter object. Both corners leave the floor together, the door holds still when you stop it at waist height, and it settles onto the floor instead of slamming. The opener runs quietly, because it is guiding a balanced door rather than hauling a heavy one, and its safety reversing works as designed. Both springs are new, both carry a containment cable, the pulleys turn freely and both S-hooks sit in the same hole. You also get the spring rating and door weight written down, so the next set can be ordered without measuring everything again.
How the visit goesYou pulled the red cord to open the door during a power cut and it barely moved. Lifting it took your whole weight, and when you let go it came down hard. It used to float up with one hand.
Extension Spring Replacement
How the visit goes


The rest of the door, and why the spring went
A spring rarely fails on its own, so the first look ends with the door it was lifting. The technician checks the rollers for cracked wheels and bent stems, the hinges for splits, the track for a bend or a bracket pulled off the jamb, and the bottom section for a dent that catches. The opener's force setting is noted, since an opener turned up to compensate for tired springs will overpower the new ones. And the history matters: a door recently fitted with insulation panels or windows weighs more than the springs were chosen for, and a door that has been closed onto snow or a bin has had its cables jolted.
Running the lift cables
Each lift cable starts at the bottom bracket, where its loop goes over the pin or is secured with a clevis pin. From there it runs up the vertical track, over the fixed pulley at the front of the horizontal track, back along the track to the pulley on the end of the spring, around it, and forward again to the S-hook or adjusting clip at the front hanger. The technician keeps the cable seated in each pulley groove and makes sure it passes on the correct side of the containment cable and the track. Cables are renewed if the old ones showed any fraying or rust, and always as a pair of the same length.
Lubrication that keeps the new set turning
Twice a year, in spring and before winter, a can of garage-door lubricant does most of the maintenance the springs need. Spray a light coat along each extension spring, working from the hanger to the pulley; it slows rust in a damp garage and quiets the coils. Put a drop on each pulley axle and on the bolts through the pulley forks, then on the hinge pins and roller stems. Leave the tracks dry and wipe them clean, since grease there collects grit and stops rollers rolling. Heavy grease and general-purpose oil are avoided on the springs because they hold moisture against the wire. Run the door a few times afterwards to spread the film.
Extension Spring Replacement
In the van
S-hooks and adjusting clips
Track clamps or locking pliers
Door-weighing scale
Containment (safety) cables
Bottom brackets and clevis pins

Extension Spring Replacement
What affects the quote
Door weight and size
Spring rating follows the door's weight, and a wide insulated door or a wood door takes heavier springs than a light single. Weight and height together set the parts on the quote.
How the door is sitting
A door resting closed with one spring gone is straightforward. A door stuck partway, twisted in its tracks or with a cable wrapped around a pulley has to be supported and straightened first.
Condition of the lift cables
Cables with fraying, rust at the loop or a kink are renewed as a pair while the springs are off. Sound cables are re-routed and set, and the quote says which applies.
What to have ready
- Has insulation, glass or a wood facing been added to the door?
- Does one corner of the door hang lower than the other?
- Does the opener still move the door, and does it sound strained?
Extension Spring Replacement: questions
QuestionsWhy does the door slam down the last bit?
A door that drops the final stretch is telling you the springs are no longer holding it. As an extension spring loses its temper it gives less pull near the bottom of travel, where the door needs the most support, so the door falls that last foot. Fresh springs matched to the door's weight bring the door down under control and take that shock off the bottom section and the opener.
How do you know which springs my door needs?
By weight. Extension springs are rated for the weight they lift, so the technician releases the opener and weighs the door on a scale, then matches that figure and the door's height to a spring rating and stretch length. The old springs are measured as a check on wire size, coil diameter and length. Where the two disagree, the scale decides, since doors gain weight from added insulation or panels.
What can I do to make the new springs last?
Three things. Spray the springs, pulley axles and hinges with a garage-door lubricant twice a year, which slows rust in an unheated garage. Keep the threshold clear of bins and packed snow so the door never stops short with the springs still pulling. And leave the opener's force setting where the technician put it, since a door that starts needing more push is a balance question rather than a dial to turn.
Related services

- Garage Door Hinge ReplacementEvery time the door goes up there is a sharp pop from the same spot, about a metre off the floor, and the whole door gives a little shudder.
- Garage Door Track Repair or ReplacementThe garage floor has settled at one corner, and the door now scrapes the concrete on that side while daylight shows at the other.
- Garage Door Cable ReplacementYour older door has springs along the tracks, and one cable has slipped off its pulley and dangles slack.